How to Crochet Parsnip The Easter Bunny With Crochet Easter Basket
This step-by-step Crochet Easter Bunny project will help you to crochet and assemble Parsnip the Easter Bunny! He also has his own crochet Easter basket, which is big enough to hold a small sized chocolate egg. A great alternative to a shop-bought Easter egg, Parsnip can be brought out year after year and filled with whatever you choose. Suitable for adults and children alike, Parsnip the Easter Bunny is sure to charm his way into your home with his bright, spring colours and cheery face
Tension doesn’t matter on this project. Just keep your stitches even all the way round.
Glossary of abbreviations and terms:
- MR – Magic adjustable ring
- CH – Chain stitch
- DC – Double crochet stitch
- DC2tog – Double crochet two stitches together/decrease
- 2DC increase – work two stitches in the same stitch/increase
- TR – treble crochet stitch
- HTR – half treble crochet
- SS – Slip stitch
- FO – fasten off
- ST/S – stitch/stitches
You Will Need:
- Lily Sugar ‘n Cream Yarn – Ombres Big Ball (I used Beach Ball Blues, but there are plenty of other colourways to suit your own tastes)
- Crochet Hook – size 3mm
- Crochet Hook – size 5mm
- Stitch marker or scrap of thread to mark the beginning of your rounds
- Natural Jute Twine/Gardeners Twine
- Knitters Needles (for sewing project together and weaving in yarn ends)
- A fork
- Polyester Toy Filling
- Embroidery thread in black and in white
- A small chocolate egg to put in Parsnip’s basket (and an extra one to eat whilst you make him!) or treats of your choice.
- Decoration to your taste for Parsnip – I used simple white ribbon!
Crochet Parsnip’s body with the following pattern and your Lily Sugar ‘n Cream Yarn and size 5mm crochet hook:
10 dc into a Magic adjustable ring
Round 1: 1 dc into each st around (10)
Round 2: 1 dc then 2dc increase in next st, 5 times (15)
Round 3: 1 dc into each st around (15)
Round 4: 1 dc into first 2 sts then 2dc increase into next st, 5 times (20)
Round 5: 1 dc into each st around (20)
Round 6: 1 dc into first 3 sts then 2dc increase into next st, 5 times (25)
Round 7: 1 dc into first 4 sts then 2dc increase into next st, 5 times (30)
Round 8: 1 dc into first 5 sts then 2dc increase into next st, 5 times (35)
Rounds 9, 10 & 11: 1 dc into each st around (35)
Round 12: 1 dc into first 5 sts then dc2tog, 5 times (30)
Round 13: 1 dc into first 4 sts then dc2tog, 5 times (25)
Round 14: 1 dc into each st around (25)
Round 15: 1 dc into first 3 sts then dc2tog, 5 times (20)
Round 16: 1 dc into first 2 sts then dc2tog, 5 times (15)
At this point it is a good idea to stuff the body.
Round 18: Dc2tog, 5 times then SS last st to first st of round and FO (5)
Sew up the opening and weave in the yarn end, losing it inside the body.
Make the arms and legs (4 in total) making sure to stuff only the paws and leaving a long tail to sew them onto the body later. Using Lily Sugar ‘n Cream Yarn and 5mm crochet hook:
12 dc into a MR
Rounds 1 – 5: 1 dc into each st around (12)
Round 6: Dc2tog 6 times (6)
Rounds 7 - 14: 1 dc into each st around (6)
Round 15: Flatten the tube between your fingers so that the stitches form a seam line and line up 3 stitches against 3 stitches - SS through both sides to close the arm tube. You will end up SS 3 times.
Make the head. Using Lily Sugar ‘n Cream Yarn and 5mm crochet hook:
6 dc into a MR
Round 1: 2dc increase into each st around (12)
Round 2: 1 dc into each st around (12)
Round 3: 1 dc then 2dc increase in next st, 6 times (18)
Round 4: 1 dc into each st around (18)
Round 5: 1 dc into the first 2 sts then 2dc increase into next st, 6 times (24)
Rounds 6 & 7: 1 dc into each st around (24)
Round 8: 1 dc onto the first 2 sts then dc2tog, 6 times (18)
Round 9: 1 dc into each st around (18)
Round 10: 1 dc then dc2tog, 6 times (12)
Round 11: 1 dc into each st around (12)
Stuff the head now.
Round 12: dc2tog, 6 times (6)
FO and sew up the opening with the tail of the yarn. To make the opening lie flat, draw the tail through the middle of the 6 stitches you just sewed up and bring it down and out through the centre of the MR you started with.
Make the muzzle using Lily Sugar ‘n Cream Yarn and 5mm crochet hook:
6 dc into MR
Round 1: 1 dc then 2dc increase into next stitch, 3 times (9) then SS last st to beginning and FO.
Make the ears (x2). The ears are crocheted around a single, central chain. Using Lily Sugar ‘n Cream Yarn and 5mm crochet hook:
In the second chain from the hook 1 dc
In the next ch, 1 dc
1 htr in the next 2 chs
1 tr in the next 2 chs
1 htr in the next ch
1 dc in the next 2 chs
You will now have reached the end of the chain.
I dc in the same last ch
(Now work your way back up the chain to where you started)
1 dc in next ch
1 htr in next ch
1 tr in next 2 chs
1 htr in next 2 chs
1 dc in last 2 chs – then SS to beginning st and FO.
Using a 3mm crochet hook and the jute twine, make the egg basket:
10 dc into MR
Round 1: 1 dc into first st then 2dc increase into next st, 5 times (15)
Round 2: 1 dc into each st around (15)
Round 3: 1 dc into first 2 sts then 2dc increase into next st, 5 times (20)
Rounds 4 & 5: 1 dc into each st around (20) – SS to the beginning of the round and FO. Weave in ends.
Now it’s time to assemble Parsnip:
Attach his muzzle to the front of his face, sewing around the edges and through into the head with the tail of thread. You can lightly stuff the muzzle if you wish.
Sew the head to the top of his body making sure you catch the head and neck. I found it easier to sew down through the bottom part of the head and then into the body. The beauty of this yarn, is that your sewing doesn’t have to be entirely invisible, as the yarn’s various colours camouflage the sewing.
Sew the arms onto the body. Using the tail of one arm, sew through the body, coming out of the other side through the top of the other arm. Re-enter that arm just next to where you came out and push through the body again, coming out back through the first arm. Repeat this until you feel that the arms are secure. This type of jointing allows some movement in the arms.
Sew the legs to the bottom of the body, splayed out a little so that he can sit. This also allows room for the basket to sit between his legs.
Attach his ears to the top of his head and embroider a nose, mouth and eyes in black embroidery thread. Make sure to use a sharp embroidery needle for this. His expression is entirely up to you, but I chose to give him smiley eyes. You could even use safety eyes, but please remember that toys with safety eyes are not suitable for very young children, due to choking hazards.
Now you need to make a little pompom for his tufty tail. You could use a very small pompom maker such as those made by Clover, but in this instance, I used a fork from the kitchen. Wrap your white embroidery thread around the fork until you have enough for a substantially fluffy tail. Then thread another piece of white embroidery thread under the wrapped yarn, through the fork prongs and tie in a tight knot around the wrapped thread. Pull the thread off the fork and cut through the two loops either ends. Fluff up the pompom, trim to neaten and sew onto your bunny.
Sew Parsnip’s hands either side of the egg basket, to make it look like he is holding it. A few stitches should hold it firmly.
Add your decorations (I gave Parsnip a little bowtie) and there you have your Easter Bunny complete! All he needs now is his chocolate egg!